The X.

In AIXblog

Say “aix”. What do you hear? Aix…aix…a.X…in general, mainly X is heard. What is the x? It is a letter and the Roman numeral ten. The grade X is what I am interested in when climbing on sandstone. It is the District-X, as I called it once. The District X, the territory of routes in the tenth grade. I do not want to claim that easier routes are about nothing, however, I hope that everybody can have a deviation (or, as Komíňák says, a diagnosis). Just the opposite, I should probably claim that I am interested in X because the routes graded VII on sandstone (the classics) are for most climbers like from another dimension and definitely more dangerous.

Oh yes! We created the new AIX WEB! I promised that when it was ready, I would start writing here! Jirous does not want to believe me but I hope I will keep my word…and, hopefully, someone will even read…about the stuff resulting from my diagnosis. About the District-X, about places and things I enjoy when I am not at home or work.

“The X” is the best “Asse’s bridge” which I could wish for! It is a route to Hláska in Drábky. The rock that landed in Skanzen, flying from Mars. Or from Labák? Or else, is it a part of Panťák? The X leads in the valley wall of Hláska just at the right arête. Obviously, according to a comment on, it is “an old abandoned Mrcha and Horákos’s project”. In spring 2011, Tomajda and Voďár tried it. They saw an obvious line, a superb new route they did not know. There was no sling in any of the rings. The magic (or difficulty) of the route lies in a section of two or three metres of the smooth rock above the fourth ring, visible already from the ground. Nothing more, nothing less. Reportedly, it took some time before Tomajda was able to think up the crux and get over it using a dyno. Following run-out in “tetris” of firm but thin slabs is not so physically demanding but psychically you can enjoy total fusion with confidence in mutual consistence of every single grain of sand. Fortunately, after some 8 meters there is a ring, made maybe by Špek, maybe by Joska Nežerka. It does not matter who hammered it in, it is really great that the ring is there.

On that cold Saturday Tomajda tried The X again and sent it in the second try. It was so chilly that the friction was low, or probably the coldness eliminated transfer of agitation about the finger and rock contact by brain synapsis. At least so Tomajda described his successful ascent – that he did not know at all if he held something or not. Tomajda’s verdict on classification was set on Xb. However, it is Xc for me. Maybe XI! It is a pure morpho problem. I do not like when the height plays such a significant role in the classification but “that’s what it is about”. In this crux, as often in climbing (and on sandstone in particular), the ape index and height of the climber plays an important role. For me, with the height about 170 centimetres, it is not possible to make the same long move as Tomajda, whose height is about 184 centimetres. I am not going to overestimate it. The main thing is that usually you can find other solution. The same was true also here – a move over a micro crimp to the key hold. In the end I was able to make all the moves so-so but to climb it as a whole was not yet possible, even though they were only three moves. I would say it is a 7C+ or 8A boulder. I consider this crux even more ultimate for smaller people than the crux in “Betonový pes” in Panťák!

It is simply a challenge and it is here. Either it will be overcome or not, as any other route. The classification does not matter (even though it is the classification that matters above all:)), the ROUTE matters in the first place. I am not going to spend all my free time climbing it but it would be worth trying that it is possible! And that is in essence the core of the District X – the climbing itself – to climb “it” no matter how it looked like at the first sight of try. It is mainly and only enjoyment, during which we are furious, scared, nervous, rejoiced…we just live it. And that is good because afterwards you can write about it and there might be people with the same diagnosis who will read it… (Maybe:))

There are a lot of things I will write about. Or shall I write – I could write about? I have many things at my heart, therefore this was not about how small I am and that I cannot climb anything (usually I “climb everything”, don’t I?:-)) but it is about what I like and about what I want to share with people who take the same view.

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