Hangar – climbing playground by Adam Ondra

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New boulder wall Hangar in Brno experienced its first endurance test on 11 January 2019 when the wall was inaugurated with the participation of Adam Ondra, who is the partner of the wall, journalists and representatives of the city of Brno. This opening ceremony included also a competition for invited climbers. Between the qualification and the final, also the visitors could get hands-on experience of the new boulder wall. The highlight of the day was the final with such stars as Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Iva Vejmolová (AIX Team), and the climbing centre was overcrowded. The atmosphere was comparable to that at the World Cup competitions, and deservedly, because this wall offers an ideal space for great contests and it is also a respectable training place for Adam Ondra who will be preparing here for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo.

We would like to know what such a building of a wall means, and which workman got at it… Perhaps you will be surprised that no local climbers but “four musketeers” from Ostrava had the courage to go in. To get more information we asked Tomáš Labounek, the wall keeper and one of the four owners.

It seems certain that you were not afraid of building such a spacious wall. The largeness of the project was clear from the beginning?
The largeness was definite from the beginning. There are enough small boulder walls in cellars or attics everywhere. I had a vision after the fashion of Barcelona – a big, bright hall full of dominant free-standing boulders, shining with colours of big holds. And both great facilities and friendly team as well.

What was the process to the final shape of the wall?
From the beginnings, the process to the final project of Hangar was difficult, full of fails and obstacles. It is said “third time lucky” but we succeeded the sixth time :) People around us did not believe in the project and did not take it very seriously. But I poked and poked into it until it turned out well.

If I understand it well, Adam Ondra was you adviser?
Yes, Adam joined us at a certain moment and became our partner and the guarantee of quality. When I saw the excitement in his face after he had visited the hall for the first time and had seen what we had been building, I was reassured that my path is right.

Except for the great space and boulders, what can climbers be looking forward to?
Step by step, I will try to create a climbing centre in Hangar, where, in my opinion, new and various boulders should be all the time. It should host and organize series of competitions, both local and, as I hope, also international. Furthermore, it should be a centre where new young talents can be bred, so a little climbing club for sure. We are also planning series of courses and individual lectures for both beginners and advanced climbers. The centre could also include lessons of compensational exercises with physiotherapists. We want, of course, also work on other services related to the centre, e.g. good food and drinking.

What about your feelings after the inauguration that was on Friday, 11 January 2019?
After the 11/1 euphoria, a great disillusion came and we realized how difficult and long the way will be to create a good climbing centre, about which I write. And how difficult it will be only to survive first months…So cross your fingers for us, we will give it all!

We in AIX cross our fingers and root for you! Thanks.

foto @archiv Lezecké centrum Hangar

Odpovídá fachman Tomáš Sládek z firmy Walltech climbing...

The wall was built by Walltech climbing. Tomáš Sládek, the owner of the firm, was willing to answer several questions.

How long did it take to build the wall?
Building of the wall lasted about three months but during that time, we changed projects of some profiles after the agreement with Adam Ondra about the name and his activity in the centre was made.

Who designed the profiles?
Me (note: Tomáš Sládek from Walltech climbing). Finishing of the colour scheme was made with Tom Labounek (note: the wall keeper and one of the owners). Tom had the idea with the Stargate principle, and I conjured it up in sketchup. It was made mainly thanks to perfect cooperation between us. I also made the production documentation (wooden construction + preparing the data of the plywood boards for our CNC saw), Bambus (Petr Bambušek) steel construction, Filip Javůrek (plywood).

What is the wall made of? If it is not a trade secret…
The construction is partly wooden – KVH and BSH joists shaped on the CNC and partly steel (monster – made by Kapr), the panels are from 21 mm plywood.

What is the height and surface in total?
The height is 4,5 m without top out and 4,0 m with top out, according to the regulation. Total surface of the wall is 989 m2 + tunnels.

How many bolt threads for holds were approximately set?
We have 40 pieces/m2, that means 30 680 pieces (screwed by 61 360 pieces of screws).

Was there something special in building this wall for you?
Yes, it was. Finally, we found an investor in the Czech Republic who was willing to pay more for quality, both the material one and in the attitude to the client. It was also special to show also here in the Czech Republic how a wall can be built, after building walls in Germany, France, Finland (at the Arctic Circle) or Hungary. I have to say that I have the greatest pleasure form this project – even though the profit was much lower than e.g. the Finnish one…I nevertheless believe that, given how everything got together, it was a good investment for the future.

Thank you for your answers.

Další info ke stěně

Part of the boulder wall is also…

  • Children’s climbing area.
  • Training area: Moonboard, campus.
  • Bistro and small shop.
  • More info: www.hangarbrno.cz or FB profil.

A good wall is made mainly by good holds, say Adam Ondra.

Adam Ondra – “A good wall is made mainly by good holds and when the good holds are available, it is enjoyable for the setter to set the routes and eventually for every climber to climb them. AIX as the distributor of the best brands was a clear choice for Hangar.

Being a competitor, it is important for me to climb boulders like the ones that appear in the contests. For that, good profiles are necessary, which Hangar fulfilled absolutely. Furthermore, you need such holds that are used at the World Cups most often. At present, they are Flathold and Cheeta for sure – mostly big slopers.

For me, as competitor and rock climber at once, a broad variety of holds from different brands is important because every hold becomes known after a while, you learn how to hold them. The magic of the training and enjoyment at once is in the difference of holds. The more enjoyable climbing on more interesting holds will be for me or for each of you, the more you will get better. In Hangar, for me entirely new holds Kingdom Climbing were set, however, we must not forget crimps. In my opinion, the best crimps are made by AIX. Even in the modern world of slopers it is necessary to know how to grab a crimp.”

Climbing holds from Holdsmarket.com: Flathold, AIX holds, AIX volumes, HRT Climbing Holds, Cheeta, Kingdom Climbing, MoonClimbing, Expression. Foto@archiv Hangar

Photogallery from competition for invited climbers and other legends

1st place: Adam Ondra – Vanda Michalková
2nd place: Martin Stráník – Iva Vejmolová
3rd place: Štefan Stygi Bednar – Jana Ondřejová

Simona Ulmonová

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