Adršpach hattrick – Andrej 5.10.2014

By
In AIXblog

An article by Andrej about one successful climbing day in Adršpach.

A Wikipedia explanation: a hat-trick or hat trick is the achievement of a positive feat three times or more during a game. For example, playing football or ice-hockey, a hat-trick means scoring three goals in one game by a single player. I have had the idea to climb three X (which I have not climbed so far) in a day for about 5 years. I have never focused on trying three X in any climbing area to climb them in a single day. But I might try it sometime…

I do not know who had already done the hat-trick, except for Jirous, who did it in 2011 also in Ádr. (Well, the fireman Doktor wondered that there is nothing difficult in doing it because he is able to do three X not in a day but in an hour…when the pub is good.) So, my first hat-trick was not planned. It simply happened. Last weekend, me and Mára “Titanhead” Pavlaťák were trying Zkrat. Mára had tried it before but he had respect for it. I was told about it by Tomajda a few times; he told me to go and try it because the route is superb. That time, it was quite wet but possible to work on it. Zkrat is situated in a slightly overhanging wall and does not seep, therefore only the finish of the route was absolutely disgusting. We were able to work out the program and to prepare the route for sending already on Saturday. I made a try on Sunday but I did not have strength any more. The crux is at the third ring and I was not able to recover sufficiently beforehand, although I was getting better in doing it. The boulder alone has five moves and I could not do the last one – a long move from a sloper into a good hole-crimp. I had also problems with the crack between the second and third ring. Although I never fell in this spot, I always felt uncomfortably. It is very demanding as for precision and each mistake took me a lot of strength, which I needed for the crux. That’s why I trained carefully this particular spot.
That weekend I had time to go climbing only on Sunday (my daughters had a birthday party in Boulder Bar on Saturday…simply cool:)). I met Mára and his family at Zkrat again. Conditions were much better after a week without any rain. I cannot say they were ideal, but better. Mára began with “Krakonošovo” to warm up, and then let’s go for it! One nervous and futile attempt by him, the same by me. Nevertheless, afterwards Mára sent it without any hesitation. He did not even tremble in the boulder at the third ring and then he kept climbing until the end of the route. He is really great on Sandstone! Fortunately, I was able to ape him and I sent it, too. Exactly six years and one day after Majzlík we did the second and third ascents of the route Zkrat. We agreed that it is a true Xc. That time I started considering the idea of the hat-trick.


We moved around the corner to the sector Himalayas, where the sandstone was coarser. I had been to this sector only once before; there are a few X’s next to each other made by Tomajda and comp. Mára recommended me Delirium Tremens Xb. He also said that also the route Avatar was good and might be easier. The latter was just being tried by Véča, so I preferred Delirium. I will leave Avatar for an OS try – or maybe for flash, since Véča has already told me a few things about it.However, it was Mára’s turn to climb. He was able to do all the moves of the route Šifra at the next rock tower, where the crux is a real morpho! Even Mára, who is tall, hardly held the arête only on its edge. As far as I know, only Tomajda has sent Šifra so far, telling it’s Xb, with a “7C boulder as in Hampi”. He is simply a demon! I onsighted the crux bouldery spot at the second ring in Delirium but I was not able to get above the ring, to which I fell immediately and helplessly. Afterwards I could get to the top, improving the program of the rounded arête above the third ring and I sent Delirium in the second try. I had already sent two X’s before in a day, but three…I started to be nervous.

My back and neck hurt from the climbing of Zkrat, moreover, I strained my biceps in Delirium. Weirdly, skin was quite all right. I would have liked to on-sight Avatar but I felt I did not have enough strength for it. Therefore I chose just the neighbouring route – Tě péro, doktore! I had tried this route before, 4 or 5 years ago. However, it was Mára’s turn again. Even though he was worn out from climbing Šifra and he had to tape his bloody fingers, he decided to give it a try “after years”. He nonetheless bloodied another finger, therefore he decided to let it be after a while – he had climbed it a few years ago anyway and repetition is not always mother of wisdom.

Both the air temperature and humidity increased; on the other hand, sun was descending. There was only minimum of magnesium in the route and the holds appealed wet. I was able to cross-over the lower crux above the first ring and somehow I did not fall. Véča belayed me, while Mára was encouraging me saying that now it was going to be OK and I would reach the top. The fight began! I wanted to send it in any case; fortunately, there were good footholds between the second and third rings. It was enough to find them and to get into the holds in the right way. I did not “read” the route much, I only grabbed the holds as I felt them, sometimes probably in the opposite way than fitting but I could not afford to lose time. Even though it was quite cold, I was sweaty as…as in summer on the artificial climbing wall. Above the third ring I made a dramatic insertion, so called “release of the dragon” – not to give a damn and jump. There was not another possibility, I was hanging in jugs some metres above the ring, tired enough to fall and not able to reach the last jug. What followed was not even a jump – more I threw myself up…only to the edge of the last jug! Fortunately, I could hold it! Training on the Transgression board probably did any good. I really can do climbing wonderful and amuse the spectators (Véča, sorry :)). Although Tě péro counts as an “easier” X, I felt this re-flash as the most difficult what I climbed that day. Well, the hat-trick was achieved, moreover, it was a straight! And what’s at home, counts.

Andrey
Recommended Posts

Leave a Comment